Power meter General Information and Installation
Power meters are sensitive devices which naturally will need more attention and care then the "set it and forget it" cyclometers you are used to. A couple of hiccups now and then is natural.
Installation tips:
READ THE INSTRUCTIONS!
THERE ARE SPECIFIC, VERY IMPORTANT REQUIREMENTS FOR INSTALLING THESE EXPENSIVE DEVICES. IF YOU DAMAGE YOUR UNIT IN INSTALLATION, IT IS NOT COVERED BY WARRANTY AND WILL COST A FORTUNE TO REPAIR!
A. Do not use zip ties on the cables! Only use zip ties to mount the pick-ups to the frame, and the mount to the handle bars. Use only electrical tape to secure the cables to the frame.
B. Lowes and Home Depot have colored electrical tape that will come close to matching your pimpy euro paint job if that matters to you. Carbon bikes and black tape match well.
C. Your first installation is merely a trial run, you will get something wrong so don't worry about it. Just losely run the cables to the mount and confirm your computer is reading the hub and the cadence sensor if you are using one. After you are sure of the installation then you can secure the cabling and run the cables up the the handle bar mount (do this last and make sure you can turn the bars all the way in each direction). Cut plenty of electrical tape strips of various sizes prior to the final installation so you have them at hand. Tape is cheap, use plenty!!
Yes, your real wattage is supposed to be that jumpy. Download your rides and start to figure out your hr and power thresholds. Try the trial version of cyclingpeaks software to help with that. Do a field test. Race with your power meter. Try some sprints to find you max wattage and then annoy your buddies with your newfound Ale Jet crank crushing powers.
ALWAYS zero your offset (calibration) before EVERY ride. Do this after the bike has gotten to the temperature of the outside. Going from AC to hot weather or heat to cold weather will change the zero offset. This is NOT like your old bike computer- it needs to be done each ride.